Brake and steering upgrade.
Installed in Col Murray's "S" Type
When I purchased my "S" Type in 1996, it was already fitted with factory power steering however, the system was in poor condition and I knew from experience that it was a steering box prone to oil leaks caused by was flexing under pressure. After some thought I decided that in the interests of trouble free motoring and as I do not like oil leaks, I would revert to using a manual system until such times as I could locate a Jaguar or Daimler 420 Varamatic system which I knew to be a superior system and one ideally suited to the "S" Type, Mk1,Mk2,340 and 240 models. I had already experimented with a modified rack and pinion system from a 1974 Series 2 XJ6 but found it to be less than ideal mainly because the steering geometry is far removed from that specified. Toe in and out on turns was incorrect and in my opinion downright dangerous under certain conditions.
In 2000 I was offered a complete 420 front suspension system which included the Varamatic power steering and a bonus, larger front brakes, a very desirable upgrade. Once removed from the rusted 420 the complete unit was stripped and the cross member and suspension components sent for sand blasting and a new shiny black epoxy paint job. Cost for this was a very reasonable £40. New bushes, refurbished brake calipers by "Classicar Automotive" at Chelford in Cheshire and new pads completed the job. A word of caution though, be very careful when removing and re-installing the front suspension coil springs as they are lethal if the correct type of spring compressor is not used.
Installation of the complete cross member is a simple task and the whole job can be completed at home on a good flat surface using a small hydraulic jack and a couple of axle stands. New hydraulic hoses were locally made and the original dynamo driven power steering pump and reservoir fitted. Fitted with a new filter and with clean hydraulic oil the system was in working order. All that remained was to do a wheel alignment to adjust castor, camber and toe in. It is not good enough to just replace shims from where they were originally as the fitting of new bushes will change the settings. I set the castor on my car to a 2 degree positive setting to aid straight line tracking, the toe in to 1/16" and the camber on each wheel to 1 degree positive. I made up my own camber gauge and had the use of a friends tracking (toe in) gauge.
This job is not too difficult for anyone with a handy outlook and following the workshop manual details will help those who find mechanical things a bit tricky. The end result is certainly well worth the effort and in total keeping with the options offered by Jaguar when the cars were new. In fact the last of the "S" models were fitted with just this system.
Conclusion.
A different car to drive and Oh! so much easier. The number of turns lock to lock is reduced by 1.5 turns and the effort needed is minimal, in fact the steering is so light when compared to my XJS that I have to take care for the first few miles and get used to the very positive feel. The brakes too are much more responsive and fade free and, as an extra bonus, the pads are a third of the price when compared to the original, "S" Type, or Mk1/2 pads.
Where do I get the parts?
Not too easy to come by but complete front ends from a 420 model are around if you look. If you are at all interested then ask me as I know where there is at least one complete front suspension which is available for the grand sum of £50. This is a steal as the JEC magazine often has them advertised for around £250. The ones I know about are in Cumbria and not too far from Whitehaven.
What will it fit?
If you want Varamatic power steering then the complete front suspension cross member must be used as the steering box is much larger than the original power or manual box, and the cross member has a cut out in the upper mounting surface to accommodate the larger Varamatic box. This said, the complete front suspension will bolt directly into all Mk1, Mk2, "S" Types, 340 and 240 models and just think of the brake upgrade too.
Cost?
Total cost which included sandblast and paint, overhaul of brake calipers, new pads, hydraulic fluid and suspension bushes, came to less than £200 a real bargain when compared to the cost of a rack and pinion conversion at £800 plus brake upgrade £300 approx.
If you are at all interested in making your prized possession easier to drive and better to stop give me a call and I may be able to help. And the conversion is compatible to the models listed above.
Col Murray